Custom Jewelry FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

You’ve come to the right place

We look forward to taking over your jewelry productions so that you can focus on what you do best, design and marketing. We encourage new clients to have a look through our FAQs before submitting any questions to us by contact form. If you still have questions that you can’t find the answer to here, you may submit a new question to our Customer Support staff via the Contact Form and one of our staff will get back to you immediately. If you find the answer to your question below, take 30 seconds to register an account with our website and get started by submitting one of your designs for quotation so that you can get a feel for how the process works. If you have many to submit, or if you’re shifting your manufacturing over from one of the old fashioned slow workhouses, then our customer service staff will be in touch shortly after you submit your first design and will help you through the process of integrating with our systems.

Gemstones

Yes! We regularly work with freshwater pearls, both half drilled and fully drilled.

We do not work with baroque pearls as it would be difficult to establish an acceptable quality standard since each pearl shape is irregular and unique.

Submit a design to get started!

Grade AAA – Consistent Brighter colors. Diamond cut. Loupe clean up to VS quality.
Grade AA – Consistent Lighter colors. Diamond cut. Eye clean up to SI-2 quality.
Grade A – Inconsistent mixed colors. Minor inclusions up to I-1 quality.

We only accept to stock and use client gemstones from established businesses. Unfortunately if you are a startup you will need to choose from the large selection of gemstones that we regularly stock.

If you are an established business, we are happy to receive your stock, however be aware of the following;

  • While we will do our best to protect your gemstones and segregate your gemstones from our own stocks, we take no liability for clients gemstones while in our possession.
  • You will be responsible for any import duties accrued on receiving these stones. Please follow our shipping instructions to minimize these. In our experience importing gemstones, if the above instructions are followed, it has not been a problem. Generally gemstones are an import tax free item, leaving only the possibility of a 7% VAT on goods.
  • There will be additional setting charges for using client provided stones. This covers the additional administration hassle of having to maintain segregated gemstone stocks and inventories. These additional fees can be evaluated when you upload a product for quotation by notating to our staff the types and sizes of gemstones you intend to provide by adding a product note.

Natural Gemstones;

  • We do a lot of work in small calibrated sizes and commonly work with the following in millimeter size stones:
    • Callibrated (Under 5mm):
      • White: Diamond, Sapphire, Topaz
      • Black: Diamond, Sapphire
      • Yellow: Citrine
      • Purple: Amethyst, Iolite
      • Green: Peridot, Garnet
      • Red: Ruby, Garnet
      • Pink: Ruby, Sapphire
      • Blue: Sapphire, Topaz
      • For clients that are established businesses we are willing to source other options, however sourcing fees of $59 will apply.
    • Larger sizes, (over 5mm) in production pieces, we’re mostly limited to the following:
      • White: Topaz
      • Black: Spinal, Onyx
      • Yellow: Citrine
      • Purple: Amethyst
      • Red: Garnet
      • Blue: Topaz
      • For clients that are established businesses we are willing to source other options, however sourcing fees of $59 will apply.
  • Inlays: we do some inlay work and have available the following gemstone varieties for this;
    • Onyx
    • Tigers Eye
    • Labradorite
    • Lapis Lazuli
    • Malachite
    • Turquoise
    • Fluorite
  • Center stones for use in unique pieces can be sourced on request.

Synthetic Stones; We also work in CZ both white and fancy as well as crystal for colors that are not available in CZ.

Intellectual Property

Yes! As a brand manufacturer we will gladly engrave your brands logo into your jewelry. We actually have multiple ways of doing this. Usually we will do this directly into the master (the production device that’s used to make production). We do this at no extra cost and this tends to come out far sharper and more professional then individually stamping each piece.

If we have to engrave each piece individually, we charge a little bit extra for this depending on the size of the engraving and typically use an engraving machine or laser engraver to do this as it comes out far more detailed than a stamp would. Also you do not deform the jewelry as can happen with stamping thin pieces and pieces that do not have suitable flat areas.

If you prefer us to stamp your logo onto your jewelry, and would like to send us stamping tools or have us create them for you, we can do that as well, just be aware that you might need a variety of stamps suited to different types of pieces, and the result will not be as sharp as an engraving.

It’s usually a good idea to indicate where you want your logo to be engraved at the time you submit your design. If you don’t indicate, or don’t have a preference, we’ll choose a suitable place for you based on industry standards.

We will never knowingly violate trademark or copyright law. You, the client, must certify to us that you are the owner of any intellectual property that you have us manufacture. That said, legally you are allowed to draw inspiration from other designers or replicate designs that are public domain. In short, you are allowed to draw inspiration from other works to create your own; this is normal, and part of the artistic process, but you are not allowed to exactly copy other copyrighted works, or to ask us to put a trademark or manufacturers mark that you do not own onto your jewelry.

Copyright law, especially when applied to jewelry designs can be very complicated. If you are not sure whether you have the right to manufacture something, consult a IP lawyer before beginning. Please note that in our manufacturing agreements, you will agree to the following:

“Purchaser certifies that all intellectual property disclosed to Manufacturer in connection with this agreement is Purchaser’s original works, or that Purchaser has legal rights to reproduce said intellectual property and has authority to authorize Manufacturer to reproduce said intellectual property on Purchaser’s behalf. Purchaser assumes all legal liability for any third party claims resulting from Manufacturer’s reproduction of Purchaser’s intellectual property should they arise. In the event that Manufacturer is required to respond to a third party or law enforcement subpoena or court order that is related to Purchaser’s use of the Site or Products, Manufacturer may, in Manufacturer’s sole discretion, require Purchaser to reimburse Manufacturer for Manufacturer’s reasonable expenses associated with complying with such subpoena or order.”

  • We produce jewelry for a number of well-known international jewelry brands, including Top 10 Brands. Products that we manufacture for clients can be found in many department store chains worldwide. We have clients inside the US, as well as all over Europe, Switzerland, Australia, Canada, and Asia.
  • Our intellectual property agreements require that we do not disclose specific information about our clients without requesting their permission to do so on a case by case basis. As such, references can be provided, but we will need some notice to receive authorization from individual clients first.
  • To do this, you will need to use our Contact Form authorizing us to disclose your identity to a reference. We will then request a letter of recommendation from a brand that we feel appropriate to the situation.
  • After registration of a business account with us, you will automatically be instructed to sign and upload a copy of our intellectual property and manufacturing agreements before you are able to proceed with your first order.
  • Our IP agreements are very thorough and are designed to protect you. Any improvements to jewelry designs, modifications of jewelry designs, or new jewelry designs developed for you are automatically your property, as are your masters, molds, and any jewelry components that we manufacture for you in the course of producing your designs.
Materials

We do not manufacture gold filled jewelry, but we do excel at Gold Vermeil Electroplating with typical wear times over 3 years.

What’s the difference?

It depends in which country you look, many countries don’t make any distinction between Gold Filling and Gold Plating, but for America, the distinction is weight.

Gold Filling:

The US requires a minimum 10%  of the net weight of the item to be gold for an item to be stamped “GF” (Regulated by the Federal Trade Commission). As many other countries do not have this requirement, be weary of inexpensive gold filled items as it may be perfectly legal in the country of manufacture to call an item gold filled and stamp it GF even though it does not meet the US standard.

 

Vermeil Gold Plating:

Vermeil gold plating is a term used to describe thick gold electroplating that is made to over 2.5 microns (98.5 Micro Inches). Wear times on gold plating can vary wildly depending on the thickness of the plating, the plating solution used, as well as the quality of the plated surface. We are extremely proud of our plating set up. Our R&D department has engineered extremely durable plating alloys, so your past plating problems are over when you move your work to us. All of our platings are nickel free and REACH compliant.

Yes! We regularly work with freshwater pearls, both half drilled and fully drilled.

We do not work with baroque pearls as it would be difficult to establish an acceptable quality standard since each pearl shape is irregular and unique.

Submit a design to get started!

Yes!

We use a special kind of hard cold enamel that is hand applied and UV cured. This is resistant to abrasives and chemicals.

Of course it’s not possible to specialize in everything. Certain types of enameled jewelry just aren’t feasible to manufacture in small batches. If your design has a complicated enameling pattern, after you upload your design our customer service will consult our production team and let you know within 24 hours if it’s something that we can do.

E-Coating is typically applied on top of flash plantings to improve durability. Since we only offer durable plating solutions that in and of themselves will have years of wear time, we do not offer E-Coating. We advise our clients to stick to real vermeil plating solutions as e-coating can lead to all sorts of post production problems. Electrophoretic coatings are considerably thicker than other plantings which lead to chain, clasp, and surface consistency issues. When e-coatings do wear, they tend to go in an unattractive manner, making your piece of jewelry look plastic and fake. On top of that, they are reactive to a wide array of solvents and jewelry cleaners which can lead to product returns form your clients down the road.

We have a state of the art plating set up and not only offer a wide range of plating options, but also offer a 2 year guaranty on our plating. As such, all of our gold plating is thick micron vermeil gold plating meaning we stick to over 2.5microns and reality we often plate up to 4microns. Our R&D department has engineered extremely durable plating alloys, so your past plating problems are over when you move your work to us. All of our platings are nickel free and REACH compliant.

  1. 18K Yellow Gold Vermeil
  2. 18K Pink Gold Vermeil
  3. White Rhodium
  4. Black Rhodium – We actually use Black Rhodium, not Black Rhutanium as many jewelers offer to save cost as the Black Rhutanium has all sorts of durability and post production issues.

We do not offer flash plating options. We do not believe it is worth the customer hassles. Quality brands offer quality.

We also offer silver Oxidization (Antiquing) as a finishing. Please note that Oxidization cannot be used on a piece together with any other plating option. This is because oxidization is not actually plating, it is a chemical reaction with the metal. Oxidization should also only be done in groves and recessed areas, and generally not on raised areas or areas that come in contact with the skin. This is because unlike plating, oxidization can easily be polished off by friction and is not a durable finishing method if applied to raised areas.

 

All quotations are generated online. You have to create an account and submit your product to receive a quotation from us. When you create a product in your user account, you will see a breakdown of all the components and prices charged for them attached to the product along with labor. We try to make pricing as transparent as possible.

  • Pricing for precious metals used in your jewelry is inclusive of all wastage. This means that you only pay for the actual raw material inside your piece of jewelry. Our precious metals prices are updated regularly. Many manufactures will hide their costs by applying a wastage percent on top of material usage.

As a fine jewelry manufacturer we work in silver, gold, and platinum, and do not presently accept work in non-precious metals.

Unless you predict very high order volumes, than generally no. It would be very difficult for us to maintain separate raw material stocks as we would have to stock casting trees in each alloy adequate to meet projected order volumes. We would also have to increase our recycling frequency which would in turn increase our waste.

18K Gold:  Yellow, White, Pink

14K Gold: Yellow, White, Pink

10K Gold: Yellow, White

9K Gold: Yellow, White (Orders must be over 200 grams per color)

Silver 925 (Ultra Hard – DeOx): Our DeOx alloy tarnishes slower than Silver 925 alloyed with copper. It is a proprietary alloy, does not contain Nickel or Cadmium, and is fully REACH compliant.

Services

Yes. We do have very specific requirements that must be followed if we’re going to be able to use your files for production. In the long run we recommend our clients to use our CAD design team where possible. Their really some of the best in the industry and we intentionally keep our fees very low with the idea that by us subsidizing design, you will be able to move into production quicker.

For more details on our design requirements please visit our CAD design page:

Jewelry Design Services in Thailand

Unfortunately we’re not presently set up to offer drop-shipping. This has to do with the nature of how goods are shipped and packed from our factory in Thailand.

1.) The cost of shipping would be prohibitively high for low to mid end items.

2.) We would be unable to honor any custom packaging or invoicing requests.

We are however able to accommodate orders of every size including single pieces, and since your pricing in your account is set based on overall volume, not dependent on quantities ordered of individual SKU’s, you can easily process client orders by passing them directly on to us for production. We’ll group your shipments to you by your preference to maximize the number of pieces in a shipment, then you can send the pieces on to your clients.

Yes, we can, but you’ll be limited to materialize that we regularly use for these types of things.

We can make shamballa style bracelets, but the development costs are high because each charm must be developed separately as a unique SKU.

Beads: Be aware that beads will always be subject to availability and you may only be able to specify general requirements like bead size and allow us to propose something as close to your requirements as possible.

Matte (Satin) finishing is a brushed-look type of texture applied to the surface of jewelry made up of very fine lines on the surface.

Matte (Sandblast) finishing is a finished made by blasting tiny particles of sand or aluminum oxide at the surface of the jewelry. The effect is to make a matte surface that resembles very fine sandpaper.

High Polish finishing is a shiny near mirror finish.

We also offer silver Oxidization (Antiquing). Please note that Oxidization cannot be used on a piece together with other plating options. This is because oxidization is not a plating, it is a chemical reaction with the metal. Oxidization should also only be done in groves and recessed areas, and generally not on raised areas or areas that come in contact with the skin. This is because unlike plating, oxidization can easily be polished off by friction and is not a durable finishing method if applied to raised areas.

If your shifting your production to us from your current manufacturer, we will need masters. This is because we insist on auditing the quality of the masters, choosing the sprew location to reduce quality problems in the casts, and  using our own molds. The molds that we use are a special type of cold state silicon that hardens to the durability of vulcanized rubber molds.

If you provide us with masters, you can expect that we may polish them, repair defects, or add a sprew to them as necessary to meet our production standards.

If you are ready to proceed and send us a style or two, register an account and submit a picture of the design along with the product details and we’ll get it quoted for you and send you information on how to ship us your masters for those products.

We are Socially Responsible & CTPAT Certified; Compliant with strictest ethical standards in the industry. Our corporate policy on commitment to social responsible manufacturing is publicly available on our website.

As a manufacturer for companies listed on public stock exchanges, we have underdone a number of 3rd party social responsibility audits.

 

  • New product samples are usually shipped in under 3 weeks.
  • Production orders are usually shipped in under 3 weeks.
  • Our average order turnaround time for 2016 was 16 days, but some products can take longer due to specific component requirements.
  • Due to national holidays, orders placed close to the Thai New Year (Middle of April) and at the end of December will be subject to a week of additional production time.

We will never knowingly violate trademark or copyright law. You, the client, must certify to us that you are the owner of any intellectual property that you have us manufacture. That said, legally you are allowed to draw inspiration from other designers or replicate designs that are public domain. In short, you are allowed to draw inspiration from other works to create your own; this is normal, and part of the artistic process, but you are not allowed to exactly copy other copyrighted works, or to ask us to put a trademark or manufacturers mark that you do not own onto your jewelry.

Copyright law, especially when applied to jewelry designs can be very complicated. If you are not sure whether you have the right to manufacture something, consult a IP lawyer before beginning. Please note that in our manufacturing agreements, you will agree to the following:

“Purchaser certifies that all intellectual property disclosed to Manufacturer in connection with this agreement is Purchaser’s original works, or that Purchaser has legal rights to reproduce said intellectual property and has authority to authorize Manufacturer to reproduce said intellectual property on Purchaser’s behalf. Purchaser assumes all legal liability for any third party claims resulting from Manufacturer’s reproduction of Purchaser’s intellectual property should they arise. In the event that Manufacturer is required to respond to a third party or law enforcement subpoena or court order that is related to Purchaser’s use of the Site or Products, Manufacturer may, in Manufacturer’s sole discretion, require Purchaser to reimburse Manufacturer for Manufacturer’s reasonable expenses associated with complying with such subpoena or order.”

  • When provided with a picture or a hand drawn design, we generally strongly recommend proceeding with a CAD design prior to commencement. This allows us to render a 3D model and make sure there will be no production issues with the design prior to commencement. It also allows us to estimate weights and stone counts much more accurately than a ballpark guess, which means you will have a much better idea of the final price of the product.
  • If a client is insistent on proceeding without a CAD, we can work directly from pictures provided they contain measurements of all aspects of the jewelry; though we will need to be able to ascertain gemstone counts and sizes. Just be aware that without a CAD you are authorizing a large amount of discretion to the jeweler who will be preparing the wax. Also quotations based on images may not be very accurate weight-wise so there may be substantial material discrepancy on product completion (IE we estimate 4 grams and the product is 6 grams). Where discrepancies are substantial the difference will either be billed additional or refunded on product completion.

All of our jewelry is 100% cadmium free and REACH compliant. We do a lot of business in the EU.

  • There is no minimum quantity orders with us. It is one of the aspects that makes our organization great. Our ordering systems allow for you to practice Just In Time inventory systems and place your orders with us according to your distributors orders to you. Our larger clients sometimes place 10 – 50 orders per day according to their distributions. Orders can contain anywhere from one piece to many thousands of pieces.
  • To price your products you will need to create an account by clicking on the ‘Register’ button on the top of the page or the ‘Submit Design’ button. The registration process only takes about 30 seconds. All quotations are generated online. You have to create an account and submit your product to receive a quotation from us.
  • When you sign up for a customer account with American gemstone you will automatically be assigned to a pricing group based on a number criteria which will be researched by a staff at the time of your account creation.
  • Because designs are all made of precious materials, prices are completely dependent on component usage. You’ll have a chance to estimate these at the time of product submission, but don’t worry our staff will review your product and update everything to realistic values within 24 hours. Once you are logged in, you will be able to submit designs for quotation through the custom product builder which can be accessed by clicking on the Submit Design button. You can also use the Jewelry Appraiser link to see approximate production prices for your products based on various component selections. Our gold and silver rates are updated weekly so your products prices will fluctuate as the markets do.
  • If you consistently order high volumes your account may be further upgraded.